Installation for 4-Battery Duktig Stoves with No Connectors
Ikea’s most recent Duktig stoves were designed without connectors. This was probably a cost-saving measure, but makes the stove harder to repair. If you have such a stove, your installation process will be more involved. You’ll need the following tools:
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A small Phillips head screwdriver. For easiest installation, you can use a #2 Phillips screw driver for the battery compartment screw and a #1 Phillips screw driver for the circuit board screws, though you can get away with using a #1 or #2 for both purposes. A #1 Phillips screw driver is usually included along with a #0 as part of a “precision” or “jeweler’s” screw driver set such as the Stanley 66-039 or 66-052.
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A small-gauge wire cutter and stripper.
Click on the images below if you’d like to enlarge them.
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This is what your new stove circuit board looks like. We'll be replacing the one already in your stove with this one. The button caps pop off and on easily in case you'd like to save your old ones. |
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Here's your Duktig Stove. It can be tricky to take the plastic cover off and get it back on. It's held in place by 8 plastic tabs (two on each side). |
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First, pull outward on the center of the long edges of the stove frame. With any luck, the top and bottom tabs should release as the plastic cover bows up slightly. If this doesn't happen, get a flathead screwdriver and carefully free the tabs as you're pulling outward on the frame. |
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Carefully push in on the short edges of the plastic cover while pulling up on the center, further bowing the cover upwards until you can release one of the short edges. Remove the cover. |
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Under the cover you'll find the old circuit board we're replacing. The board shown in this photo does not have wire connectors; the wires are soldered directly to the circuit board. If your board has connectors, follow the installation instructions for connectorized boards instead. |
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Grab your Phillips head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the circuit board into the stove's frame. |
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Using your wire cutter, cut all the wires off the old circuit board. Keep as much wire as you can attached to the stove by cutting the wire close to the old circuit board. |
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Using a wire stripper (or cutters, if you're careful), strip a little bit of insulation off each wire. Strip enough insulation to expose about 1/8" (3mm) of bare wire, as seen in photo inset (red circle). |
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Insert fresh batteries: the ones you had in the stove previously are probably dead. |
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Connect the battery to the new circuit board. The battery
ground wire goes from the bottom-left of the battery box to the
Bat- connector on the new circuit board; see black arrows in
photo. The battery positive wire goes from the top-right of the battery box
to the Bat+ connector on the new circuit board; see red arrows
in photo.To attach each wires to its connector, firmly push the bare wire end into the side hole until you feel it grab on and hear a click. If the wire is properly inserted, it should be difficult to remove. Note: the wire coming off the bottom-right of the battery box is not used and sould be left disconnected. |
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Make sure the
battery box is correctly connected. Push either button and you should
see the tiny yellow light above the POWER label flash.
If you don't see the light flash: (1) ensure all four batteries are fresh, inserted firmly in the battery box, and each inserted in the correct direction. (2) Make sure the wire coming off the bottom-left corner of the battery box is going to the left side of the battery connector, and the top-right wire is going to the right side. (3) Make sure both wires are firmly inserted into the new circuit board's connector. Try re-seating the wires: by pushing on the tab at the top of the connector you can remove them. Make sure there is at least 1/8" (3mm) of wire stripped. Push firmly until you hear a click. |
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Connect
the right-hand burner to the right-hand LED connector. The wire coming
from the right side of the burner goes to the upper LED+
connector. The wire from the left side of the burner goes to the lower
LED- half. Push the wires in until you hear a click and
the connector grabs the wire. Test the burner by pushing the right-hand button and ensuring the burner's light turns on. If it does not, (1) try removing and reinserting the wires to ensure they are firmly seated. Push the small tab on the top of the connector to release the wire. (2) Try plugging the LED wires in the other way: burner's right to LED- and burner's left to LED+. It's possible that
on some models of Ikea Duktig, the polarity is reversed.
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Connect the
left-hand burner to the left-hand LED connector. On the Duktigs I've
seen, the left burner's wiring is a mirror of the right: the left-hand wire
goes to the upper LED+ half of the connector, and the right-hand
wire goes to the lower LED- half. Push the wires in until you
hear a click and the connector grabs the wire. Test the burner by pushing the left button. If it doesn't work, ensure you have enough wire stripped and that the wire is firmly seated in the connector. You can also try reversing the wires. |
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Once everything works, replace the three screws that secure the control board to the bottom of the stove's frame. |
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Get ready to replace the cover. Make sure the side with the thinner circle goes up. The cover is almost, but not quite, symmetrical. If you try to put it on upside-down, it will almost, but not quite, fit. |
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Put one of the short ends in first. Bow the cover slightly and put the other short end in. Then pull the frame apart slightly to let the long-side tabs slip back into place. |
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You're all done! You'll most likely never have to change your stove's batteries again. Enjoy! |